A Timeless Tuxedo | InStitchu

 
 
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel
 

Words by Ben Brewster, Creative Director, The Cuff
Photography by Liz Aquilino

 

 

Far from a thing of the past, the tuxedo is one of the most essential staples a man can have in his closet. The pinnacle of sartorial elegance, a well-made tuxedo will last a lifetime without ever going out of style, and always comes in handy when that “Black Tie Only” invite comes calling. I teamed up with one of my favorite custom suiting brands, InStitchu, to design one myself—and the results were impeccable.

 
 
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel
 

As this was my first custom tuxedo and I wanted to keep things classic, opting for a black wool, one-button jacket with wide, satin lapels and jetted pockets. As I’ve come to expect when working with InStitchu over the past couple years, the fit and craftsmanship were no less than exceptional. The highlight of this design for me is the wide shawl collar. Distinguished enough to wear on any black tie occasion, yet unique enough that it won’t be found on the rack, it tows the rare line of being a standout feature while remaining understated. While there’s plenty of room for creativity down the line, I think it’s wise to start out with the classic black tuxedo and then build out your formal wardrobe from there. Continue reading below for a few things to keep in mind when styling your own black tie look.

 
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel
 

My Tuxedo Style Tips:

  • Steer clear of notch lapels in favor of peak—or my personal favorite, a shawl collar.

  • Wear a self-tied bow tie. Not only will it have more character than the pre-tied alternative, but you’ll also feel a sense of accomplishment when you master the art of the tie. It’s a totally different animal than the standard necktie.

  • Keep your timepiece minimal. Opt for a classic dress watch with a slim profile and small face that tucks seamlessly under your shirtsleeve and won’t disrupt the clean lines of your look.

  • Match your metals. If you’re wearing silver cufflinks, wear a silver watch, etc.

  • Jewelry is OK, but keep it understated. A bangle or signet ring is an easy way to elevate your ensemble without overpowering it.

  • Add a cummerbund. It’s a great way to lengthen the legs and remove the distracting shirt wrinkles that occur at the waistline.

  • Always opt for a blind hem rather than a cuff on your pants to keep the streamlined, uncluttered silhouette consistent throughout your figure.

  • Viva velvet slippers! While opera pumps are the historical choice for black tie, slippers are a great modern alternative.

 
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel
institchu tuxedo ben brewster shawl lapel

The details:

Tuxedo • InStitchu
Shirt, Cummerbund & Bow Tie • Eton Shirts
Bracelet • Tateossian London
Watch • Timex
Shoes • Magnanni